Frequently considered the most difficult algae to control is the one we commonly refer to as "black algae". However, it is also likely the easiest to prevent. Black algae typically gains a foothold in areas of the pool that suffer from poor circulation. Areas such as corners, or in certain areas of the deep end, are often identified as places where black algae continues to show up in a particular pool and are then nearly impossible to eliminate. Most often, these areas suffer from inadequate circulation and thus little or no fresh water, sanitizer or algaecide gets to the area with any regularity.
One of the best ways to prevent black algae growth or eliminate it once it surfaces is to correct the circulation problem(s) first. Once it begins forming, black algae develops specialized cells that lock it deep in the pores of pool surfaces. In order to effectively control it, all of its cells, including those deep in the surface, must be killed. It is all but impossible for chlorine alone to get this deep into the pores of the pool.
In addition to the attaching or locking mechanism of black algae, the growing colony also produces a defense mechanism. Outer layers of the colony produce a waxy coat that prevents chlorine or algaecides from penetrating into the colony and killing it. Therefore, the algaecide used should contain a "penetrating" agent. This agent will actually work to help the algaecide penetrate into the pores of the pool surface and cut through the waxy coat with a special wetting action that chlorine does not have.
Break a chlorine tablet in half and rub it directly onto the affected areas. The chlorine treatment will kill the algae’s roots and prevent it from coming back.
Shock your pool. Because black algae is tougher than other types of algae, you might need to use a stronger dose of pool shock. Check the directions on the package or talk to your local pool supply retailer.
Like black algae, this reddish-pink growth isn’t a true algae. It’s actually a type of bacteria – in this case, a slimy bacteria that thrives around PVC pipes and in shady spots on your pool’s surface. Like all other types of algae, pink slime is totally harmless. Unlike black algae, pink algae lacks a protective shell, so it isn’t especially tough to remove.
As cold weather approaches, it’s time to start thinking about winterizing your swimming pool. Winterizing – or shutting down your pool for the season – helps safeguard your pool from costly damage related to freezing water. It’s also a great way to keep your pool clean and ensure that it’s ready to go when the next swimming season rolls around.
Have questions about how to close a pool? New to the whole winterizing thing? Here are a few steps to follow that will make your pool as safe as possible for the winter.
Before you shut down your pool for the season, you’ll want to make sure that your water is balanced. By ensuring that your pool water chemistry is where it needs to be, you can avoid labor-intensive maintenance headaches when it’s time to open your pool up again.
Parts per million – often abbreviated as PPM – is a unit of measurement that tells you how much of a particular substance – such as a chemical or mineral -- is present in water.
pH. This is a measure of the acidity of your pool water. pH level can affect everything from algae growth and corrosion to comfort and cleanliness. It can also affect the effectiveness of the other chemicals in your swimming pool. An ideal pH is 2 and 6 parts per million (PPM). If your pool’s pH is too high or too low, you can use a chemical increaser or decreaser as needed.
Total alkalinity. Alkalinity directly affects your pool’s pH. For example, if your swimming pool’s total alkalinity is too high, your pH will also be too high. If your alkalinity is too low – you guessed it -- your pH will also be too low. You’ll want your pool’s alkalinity to be around 100 PPM.
Calcium hardness. Calcium is always present in swimming pool water. However, when calcium levels are too high or too low, you could be looking at a range of issues such as corrosion and scaling. Aim for a calcium content of 100-400 PPM. Use a hardness increaser to raise calcium levels, and use a sequestering agent to lower your calcium (both products are available in any pool supply or hardware store).
Pro tip: Closing your pool for the season? Consider investing in winterizing chemicals to keep your pool water chemistry balanced and on track. You can visit a local pool professional retailer to learn more.
One critical component of pool closing: chlorine level. Chlorine prevents algae, breaks down bacteria, and keeps your pool clean and fresh. Before you shut things down for the season, it’s a good idea to hit your pool with an extra-powerful punch of chlorine in the form of a shock treatment. Shocking your pool is easy: Use a shock treatment to bring your 10 to 12 PPM. Then, wait a day or two for the chlorine to come down to its normal level, about 5 to 5 PPM.
Remove all skimmer baskets, heaters, slide, wall fittings, vacuums, pool cleaners, ladders and handrails. Clean all items, allow them to dry thoroughly, and store them in a safe, dry place. Once the equipment is out of the way, remove all debris from the pool using a net, a soft broom, or even a leaf rake.
Each type of swimming pool has unique requirements for winterizing. An above ground pool might have slightly different winterizing needs than an inground pool. Each type of pool filter has a unique shutdown process. Check with your pool professional to learn how to properly winterize your pool, minimize damage, and ensure safety.
You can either use your filter pump or a submersible pump to lower your pool water level. You'll need to lower the level about 4 to 6 inches below the lowest plumbing line, normally the water return line. Be sure the water level is at least below the skimmer. You can remove the above ground pool skimmer.
Your pump, filter, heater, and chlorinator all have a drain plug. Either drain the water out of these or blow the lines out with a shop vac. From there, it's time to clean your pool filter: Sand filters and Diatomaceous Earth (DE) filters will need to be backwashed, then disconnected and stored in a safe, dry place. Cartridge filters must be thoroughly cleaned and allowed to dry completely (this is also a good time to inspect your cartridge filter for any damage).
Concrete PoolsIf the filter is small enough, you might be able to take it apart and store it for the winter. Keep the plugs out of these units. If you plug them back up and water happens to get into them, they might freeze over and crack your equipment.
Pro tip: Place all the plugs in the skimmer basket during your pool winterization maintenance. That way, you'll know where they are when you need them next spring.
If you have a chemical feeder, drain and empty it. Leaving chemicals in your chemical feeder during swimming pool winterization can damage your equipment. Remember to put the top back on the chemical feeder and be sure to wear safety goggles and gloves.
Use a solid swimming pool cover that keeps out all debris, blocks the sun, and inhibits algae growth. And don’t forget the air pillow! Air pillows to fit under your winter pool cover, and they help relieve pressure -- and protect your pool’s walls -- as your pool water freezes. Air pillows can also keep leaves, debris, and water from collecting in the center of your pool cover.
It’s a warm day, and all you can think about the crystal blue water of your swimming pool. But just as you’re about to dive in, you notice something: Cloudy pool water.
Not only is cloudy pool water unattractive, but swimming pools with cloudy water can even pose health risks. That’s because cloudy pool water can contain harmful bacteria such as E. coli and Legionella. What’s more, pool water that’s cloudy can even damage your pool and its circulation system.
Aside from the obvious — who wants to swim in THAT? —cloudy pool water can result in some serious issues. It can stain the sides of your pool, and corrode some components of your pool, including the accessories. It can also cause some health concerns if bacteria is the cause.
When you add pool sanitizer – like chlorine or bromine -- to the water, you increase its ability to attack the debris that ends up floating on top of or sinking to the bottom of your pool. Debris includes falling leaves, dirt, and pollen. But it also comes from the people who use your pool: think sunscreen, beauty products, sweat and even urine (it’s gross, but it’s true).
Chlorine and bromine both act to battle the bacteria in your pool, but bromine is more resilient. Once chlorine combines with bacteria, it is eliminated from the pool water. But bromine continues to sanitize your pool even after combining with bacteria. For this reason, bromine is more expensive than chlorine.
But here’s the deal: As your pool sanitizer break downs all of that debris and organic matter, it depletes over time – and this means it’s less effective at breaking down that dirt, debris, and bacteria.
The sun also depletes the pool sanitizer levels. When the ultraviolet rays hit the water, they break up the hypochlorite ions, which work to sanitize the water as you add chlorine to your pool.
And finally, algae can also affect your pool sanitizer’s ability to keep the water clean. Not only does algae make it difficult to see what’s in the pool, but – like other organic matter – it depletes your pool sanitizer, making it less effective.
The takeaway: Pool sanitizer isn’t meant to be added once and then forgotten. To keep it working effectively – and to keep your pool water from becoming cloudy -- you will need to add bromine or chlorine regularly.
Although chlorine might be the better-known pool sanitizer, bromine is equally effective when it comes to killing bacteria. The main difference: Bromine has a lower pH, which means it’ll help keep your water chemistry stable. It also performs better in high temperatures. Chlorine, on the other hand, delivers faster results and is slightly more affordable than bromine.
If your pool filter system is clogged up or your pump isn’t performing well, it can cause cloudy water. And to keep your water looking crystal clear, you should run your filtration system at least eight hours a day.
The takeaway: When your filter isn’t clean – whether you have a cartridge filter, a sand filter, or a diatomaceous earth (or “DE”) filter -- the water filtered through it won’t be distributed well by the pressure side of the circulation system. So, keeping your filter and pump clean, maintained, and in good working order will help you avoid cloudy pool water.
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